last of new york’s master wigmakers

by:CAI YI JIE     2019-10-11
Nicholas Square has 600 pounds hair in his Staten Island garage.
He kept it in a plastic box and carton opposite the fishing supplies.
\"It\'s gray, it\'s brown, it\'s blonde,\" he said . \".
\"There is everything.
In a box, shiny brown parcels snuggle up like snakes.
He picked two thick braids and lifted them from the bin.
They are unwound, 3 feet long and almost reach the ground.
\"These are all hair cut directly from people\'s heads by Russians . \"Piazza said. Mr.
The 69-year-old pizazza, the grandson of Sicilian immigrants, is the son of a detective and a tournament fisherman.
He doesn\'t look like a guy who will collect exotic hair in the garage.
But for decades,
Square is one of the most popular places
After the swing in New York City
He customizes wigs and wigs for Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, Brooke Astor and Lena Horne at the Kenneth hair salon.
He also made the closest thing in the world to mermaid hair, and made the long hair that Daryl Hanna wore in splash.
\"Most of his hair came from warehouses around the world and eventually surpassed his studio.
\"I can\'t close my closet,\" he said . \".
\"I have more hair than I know. ”Mr.
Square is one of the last Old World wig manufacturers to make wigs for the city\'s public, and for centuries, most of the men and women trained by Italian and Jewish immigrants --
Old manual trade
Tie the wig, and in the patience range, it\'s a tedious thing to do, between cutting the jacket and counting the stars.
These are not hot.
Pink bodice for Halloween shops.
They are made of human hair and have complex hair lines that fit into the skin.
To make one, it is necessary to weave the hair into several pieces with a small needle and weave it into a lace mesh cap at a time. This process is called ventilation.
It takes about 40 hours to ventilate the lace wig, and it may have 150,000 knots at the root. For a quarter-century, Mr.
The square has a studio on 57 th Street in Manhattan. It used to be high-
End the hair, and a wig master like Bob Kelly, who made a 30-year wig for Saturday Night Live and died in 2011, Raffaele molllica, a long time ago, he moved his studio to the Upper East Side. These days, Mr.
The square rented several rooms in an unmarked salon in Midtown, and when his old building became a luxurious high-rise, he moved there
He only works three days a week, mainly for the maintenance of the customer\'s wig, and the cost starts at $3,850.
\"I\'m done,\" he said . \"“Just coasting.
\"It seems to be another case of an outdated craft disappearing from New York, one craftsman at a time.
But the wig was far from being swept away.
It turns out that demand has not been as high since the wig boom in late 1960 and early 70 s, when
The square entered the stadium with his companions.
Wigs are part of a human hair trade boom that begins with an extension of the wig.
According to Emma Tarlow, an anthropologist at entanglement: The Secret Life of hair, hair extensions reignited \"crazy global hair deals\" in early 1990 \".
Imports from the United States last year were worth $685.
According to the Census Bureau, this figure is $3 million, up from $51.
1992 6 million. Hair —
Man, synthetic, animal, sometimes a mixture of three secrets.
Has become a billion
As Chris Locke explores in his 2009 documentary, good hair, the driving force for Africa\'s development is
With the extension and weaving of wigs, the US market is also popular.
\"It\'s a cool thing now, and before that, everyone is trying to hide it,\" says Hadiiya Barbel . \" Wendy Williams\'s personal wig designer now has his own wig collection.
In New York, the world of wigs is vast and diverse.
In Chinatown, South Korea
Wholesalers in the United States sell a lot in the hair area, and a house of wig manufacturers weave hair for the Metropolitan Opera House and Broadway musicals.
In the hair salon on 125 Street, Harlem and Fulton Avenue, Brooklyn, women comb their hair with names such as Senegal\'s twist and Peru\'s body wave.
In parts of Brooklyn and Queens, among the few public places, you will find that Orthodox Jewish women who do not wear wigs are swimming pools.
However, most of the wigs on the market are made in China, where thousands of factory workers do the hard work that New York wig manufacturers have done: pull short hair out of bundles and cut hair, roast curly hair, stir your hair in a big bucket of white water, hand-knotting wigs.
\"Many people call their wigs \'customer \'. \"
Piazza said, \"they just write down the order and send it to the east, and then they make some adjustments when they get the order.
Michael Meyer said: \"Today, there are only about 200 well-trained custom wig manufacturers across the country, mostly working in the theater, film and television industries, director of the wig and makeup design project at the University of North Carolina School of Art, one of the only custom wig-making projects in the country.
\"Some people take online classes to watch YouTube videos,\" he said . \".
\"But it\'s a far cry from someone trained and working to withstand HD cameras.
\"One measure of a good wig is its hair line.
This is the most difficult to imitate, which is why many wigs have bangs.
In order to achieve a naturalist look, wig manufacturers sew their hair separately on the hair line and even add baby hair frequently.
Another sign of the premium wig is the quality of the hair.
Mr. hair like this.
Pizazza is in his garage.
Long, European and \"Lemi\" means cutting from one head and arranging the roots to the end --
Is the most valuable.
$4,000 per kilogram, roughly equivalent to the price of truffles. High-
Indian-grade hair costs $2,000 per kilogram.
This is where things get weird.
Hair is unregulated, an economy that is largely hidden and easily abused.
\"There are a lot of people living by their hair,\" Ms. Li said.
Anthropologist Taro said.
In the long supply chain, the Wiggs manufacturer is just one stop.
Businessmen are looking for hair on Earth, and they buy it from vendors who usually cross the remote areas of poverty alone.
In Myanmar, villagers untied the sale to extend the sale period.
In the Colombian border town of La Parada, there has recently been a stands for women who have entered the country from the crisis --
Venezuela sold their hair.
The sale of remains in the international arena is prohibited, but human hair is treated like any other raw material, such as hardwood floors or textiles.
It is delivered to the customer by express delivery and its source cannot be verified.
In the hairdressing industry has expanded.
The square began to make wigs.
It is full of stories of fraud, theft and hair gained from troubled countries.
At least in that sense, he said, there is little change. Mr.
Pizazza is not a person who is born with passion for hair.
He grew up in bensenhurst, Brooklyn, and when he was 16, he met his wife Beverly at an Italian street music festival.
\"I came back from Vietnam and I don\'t know what to do,\" he said . \".
\"I became a barber because my wife was a barber.
\"Late 1960 is a good time to wear a wig.
Fashion began with the popular bouquets of Jacqueline Kennedy and the super rich, and it was almost impossible to achieve without hair.
Hair clips on the back of the head;
There is hair on the big hair belt.
In the store, the hat department became the wig department.
Hair trade also broke out.
In 1966, the United States banned the import of \"Communist hair\" from China \".
In the same year, a new source was discovered: the Hindu temple in India, where pilgrims shaved their heads.
\"There is a lot of high quality hair there,\" the New York Times reported ; \";
\"A $22 million deal was reached.
\"By the end of the decade, the United States was the largest importer of hair,
Exported to more than 60 countries.
Even selling hair to men
Even those who are not bald
Playboy Magazine calls it a short lamb chops, encouraging men to wear fake beards and lamb chops
Called Bush.
\"Soldiers --
The duty officer wore a wig on their buzz cut. Mr.
Open-Air square accepted an apprentice from a German wig maker after graduating from hairdressing school and then worked for Enny in Italy under the leadership of Ernesto Capparelli.
Many of New York\'s swing makers are Italian.
For most of the 20 th century, Palermo in Sicily fell.
Italy has become the center of the hair trade, away from the widely harvested hair. Mr.
Piazza remembers this as an era of creativity and drama.
When synthetic fibers such as Kanekalon, Japan, appeared in late 1960, they lowered the price of wigs, causing the price of human hair to plummet.
Some wig suppliers in New York have been angered.
On 1968, Murray Kaye, a Manhattan salon operator, claimed to be Ralph Nader in the beauty industry, staged a \"burning --
In a synthetic wig.
He said he wanted to prove that they were a fire hazard.
It is usually not clear what is true.
It is so common for 1970 of people to mix their hair with synthetic or animal hair that the FTC reminds wig manufacturers that \"real hair\", \"natural hair\" and \"real hair\"
That year, it issued regulatory guidelines. (
They were withdrawn on 1995. )Mr.
Piazza started working for Kenneth Bartle in 1973 and invited him to start the wig business in the name of Kenneth salon in 1979.
As the wig boom subsided.
The square is diversified.
He made the waterfall, the slide, the clip.
Ons, topknots and wigs, open moustachecoffin funeral.
In 1976, he said, he was called to do an emergency merkin for a top-floor apartment model who didn\'t have enough insurance.
He made a line of popular hair accessories that looked like fishing bait.
Soon, sir.
The square began looking for hair.
\"When Kenneth first asked me to do business, it was difficult to find European hair in this country,\" he said. Piazza said.
\"Everyone says the best hair comes from Italy.
So he got a list of hair suppliers from the Italian Trade Commission and flew to Italy over the next few summers.
\"I will take one with two T-
\"I bought a shirt and a pair of jeans and went home with about 80 pounds of my hair,\" he said . \".
Soon the Barber and other wig makers began to ask him for services.
\"They would say, \'Buy me a few pounds and I don\'t care if you make a few bucks.
Your hair is good.
So all of a sudden, I became a hair stylist. ”The three-
Foot braids, sir.
The garage in the square was occupied by him in the middle. 1990s.
One day, two Russian men showed up in his shop carrying suitcases.
He said: \"The natural blonde beauty, the natural red man, disappears directly from people\'s minds . \"
This is the kind of hair that the industry calls \"liquid gold --
The hair of the Caucasian, long and Rami, is not affected by Western chemicals.
\"I said, \'Wow guys, you don\'t have to go any further; let’s talk.
Goods from his Russian dealer
\"Sometimes it was sewn up with a pillow,\" recalls Piazza.
Sometimes he carries 20 or 30 kilograms of hair at a time.
Sometimes I go to the apartment at Brighton beach at two in the morning or see the plane at JFK airport.
He will give me a suitcase and I will give him an envelope.
It lasted only ten years.
With the spread of capitalism, competition for Western hairstyles, hair dye and greed is also spreading.
Virgin hair is getting harder and harder to find.
The hair in the suitcase changed from 36 inch to 22, then to 18, and then to 6 that were almost unusable.
\"It\'s getting shorter and shorter,\" Mr. Piazza said.
\"Then they won\'t get it anymore.
But he thinks he\'s ready.
\"I still have two lifetime supplies.
\"Fortunately.
Piazza, the hair is very, very slow to rot.
An Egyptian mummy on display at the American Museum of Natural History is scanned by a CT scanner, and the image shows the outline of her skull with flat-looking needle curls. Standing in Mr.
The garage in the square is between boxes of hair and I can\'t help but wonder if the hair harvested decades ago didn\'t start to smell.
\"What did you smell? ” Mr.
The square handed me a braid and asked.
The hair is clean and soft, giving off a hint of medicine.
Before I could answer, he announced, \"Mothballs.
Sometimes someone comes in and says I smell like a camphor pill.
He took responsibility with a smile.
\"I don\'t wash well enough.
I will say, this is your imagination.
It will come out.
\"Sheitel\" is the Yiddish term for wigs worn by many Orthodox Jewish women, abiding by Jewish law and covering their hair publicly after marriage.
Glenward Claire, Claire Accuhair, is the famous gate sheitel machers in Brooklyn, New York. Ms.
85-year-old glenwald learned to make wigs from a German wig maker while living in a displaced person camp outside Nuremberg after World War II. (
She detailed this on a blog called wigs, poetry and the Holocaust. )
When we met at our home in Midwood, Brooklyn, she wore an apron on her sweater. Ms.
Glenwald lost her lease at the salon on Coney Island Avenue and is currently working in the basement.
In the usual wigmaking decorationa-
Brac is a special item for her Orthodox Jewish customers: Black hair is tightly wrapped around a stick baked into curled prosthetic payot (
Traditional Orthodox side lock);
A head-shaped, fluffy white beard suitable for bald Orthodox men.
\"This is made of yak hair from Tibet,\" she said . \"
Her own hair style is shoulder long, gray and wavy.
Orthodox women traditionally wear wigs of the same color and texture as their hair, she said.
Her custom wig starts at $3,800 and is designed to get as close as possible to the exact replica of their hair until the parts line and denim.
\"Everyone is like a fingerprint,\" she said of her wig . \"When Ms.
Glen Wald arrived in New York on 1949 and her skills were required.
The hat was out of date and sheitels came back.
In 1960, immediately after the beauty school and her marriage, she found a job as a wig maker and went out on her own.
Changed a lot.
Lady, people don\'t need to know how to get sheitels to order and sell themGrunwald said.
She faces competition from every community salon and charming choice, like the wig mall Shuly Wigs in Kensington, Brooklyn, where there are hundreds of ready-made --
A wig was covered on the wall.
Owner Shulamit Amsel admits that she and MS are in different categoriesGrunwald.
\"I\'m not a pendulum,\" she said . \"
\"I\'m a wig maker.
\"It\'s like a custom dress where you go to Dior and they make it for you, not ready-made --to-
She added.
\"Business is dying.
\"On 2004, sheitel machers in Brooklyn attracted more widespread attention, when Israeli rabbis issued a ruling stipulating that Jews could not wear hair from India, because it may be associated with Hindu religious practices considered idol worship.
After the ruling, women rushed to buy synthetic wigs and cloth-head coverings at a residential girl\'s snood factory in Brooklyn.
The burning wig was declared the only acceptable way to handle the wig.
The Times described the scene in Williamsburg, Brooklyn a few days later: \"by 7: 15, a few piles of wigs had been scattered and lit.
A circle of people formed around a fire, driven by cartons full of wigs, pressed so close that two police officers stepped in.
\"Then a man rushed into the circle of people and threw another wig on the fire. ”Ms.
\"I think it\'s ridiculous,\" glendwald said.
It\'s crazy, meshuas.
It was the fanatics that caused this to happen.
No problem with Indian hair. ” Ms.
Amsel of Shuly wig said, \"it\'s all about faith that we don\'t want to comment on.
Sheitels came back eventually, some of them with Jewish labels, but the decision had lingering consequences.
India\'s exports are affected.
\"There are many wig manufacturers . \"Grunwald said.
\"These people sit and learn the Torah.
The women were making shakers and putting food on the table.
This ruined a lot of women. ”She paused.
\"We were all happy when it was over,\" she said . \".
\"No one is asking Indian hair now.
Raffaele molllica will tell you that he is the last swing.
He will tell you loudly.
He would scream, wave his arms, fire his competitors, and even the late one: \"That wig finagler?
\"I am the only wig maker on Earth who can make wigs from beginning to end by himself.
I accept it if anyone does not think so. \"He shouted, standing in the studio on 84 th Street.
\"We can walk into the room, bring our cloth, hair, ventilation needles, and make wigs. ”Mr.
Molica was born 71 years ago in Sicily and grew up in Astoria, Queens.
His wig starts at about $5,000, known as the Ralphs.
They are so popular in the international Orthodox Jewish community that an impostor has been imitating him, advertising all over Israel, using Mr.
The reputation of Molica
He said: \"He is a worthless dandruff . \"
Molllica, show me a copy of so-
Ralph wig collectionThe real Mr.
Molllica was the one who got the call when they broke up. Like Mr. Piazza, Mr.
Molllica, a hairdresser, turned to wigs during the wig boom, exchanged hair styles with wigs, and learned from retired ballet dancers in Italy.
He said that he was inspired by the naturalism of \"Vidal Sassoon revolution\", but in salons such as Vidal Sassoon, Kenneth and Elizabeth Aiden, inspired by another revolution, he opened his own studio in the 1980 s.
\"The chemotherapy revolution,\" he said . \"Mr.
Molica says chemotherapy has changed his approach.
Wigs for daily use must not be detected outside the yard and are durable;
Movies, TV and stylish wigs do not have to be cleaned or handled routinely.
Marcia Glikas, 65, found it.
Forty years ago, after trying to inject and weave, Molica
Her hair fell off and covered her rapidly sparse hair.
She has 20 Ralphs now.
\"I can\'t drive a convertible, my hair flutters in the wind, my scarf flutters in the wind;
\"I will like it,\" she said . \".
\"But I have hair, and I have hair thanks to loofah.
His wig is as soft and light as his wig.
\"In real life\"
Molica told me if I was his client, \"all you want is the wig to look like it is now.
Of course, this is quite correct compared to some crazy hairdressers adding plastic at beauty salons. ”Ms.
Not long ago Glikas came in for some maintenance of her wavy wig.
\"I was shocked to find him bald,\" she said . \".
\"After helping so many people, he had lymphoma.
\"Cancer is easing,\" he said. Mollica said;
He had no plans to leave the company.
He said, \"I retire when I die . \"
\"After my death, there will never be another custom swing.
\"The old world wig manufacturers in New York did not systematically pass on their knowledge to apprentices, although they taught countless immigrant women to weave their hair for them.
She said that when the theater production company Merria Dearman wanted to learn how to make wigs for the public, she had to come and look for them.
She worked at a salon to make wigs for companies like the Berkeley repertoire theater, and when one day she realized that the wigs she made for the performers were of higher quality than those for hair loss and cancer patients.
\"There is a gap in our market,\" she said . \"“It clicked.
She moved to New York from the San Francisco Bay area.
She found something like Mr. Piazza.
\"Imagine that I moved here to study. These people I met are me . \"
The 40-year-old said.
\"They are an endangered species.
They\'re Italians everyone will go.
\"Three years ago, she opened a studio on 58 th Street, and customers were raining, mostly young women with hair loss.
\"They found me after being hurt by other wigs,\" she said . \".
\"Forget this so called \'I am a single black woman and sorrow is my epidemic,\'\" a writer at the news site named Yesha Callahan\'s roots in 2010
\"The real crisis sweeping the country is lace --
Front hair lines starting from eyebrows! ” Her tongue-in-
The celebrity\'s cheek feeling with an imperfect wig concluded: \"I blame Tyra and Beyonce for buying this lace --
Wigs are popular.
Celebrity culture is considered-or blamed for —
The sudden popularity of wigs.
But hardia barbell, a former wig designer on Wendy Williams\'s talk show, says the real instigator is technology.
Celebrities always have extra hair.
But in the 2000 s
Defining the camera creates a more convincing illusion.
\"We really have to make it look like it\'s coming out of her scalp,\" she said . \"
Williams publicly expressed her love for wigs.
\"We have to improve our hair style and balance our hair style --
Add dense, take full.
\"Like Tokyo Stylez, she worked with Lee Jin and Rihanna.
Barbel has become part of a new phenomenon: celebrity wig designers.
The price of the wig for her series Araya rose from $750 to $3,000.
\"I started to change my client from knitting to a wig,\" she said . \"
Barbel pointed out that they are so-
Known as the natural hair movement, it encourages black women to give up harsh chemical treatments such as relaxation or perm. Ms.
Barbel recently received a fanatic request from a Brazilian carnival queen who saw a video of her dancing: \"Send me your head.
Hairline wigs, an Egyptian wig company operating in Harlem and Atlanta, said the biggest shift was public talk about wearing hair.
\"Vivaca Fox took off a piece of her hair on TV --
\"It\'s not as mysterious as it used to be,\" she said . \".
\"It\'s like a Jewish wig.
But it can be heated.
When Kylie Jenner claimed that wigs were beginning to pop last year, the reaction was intense.
For people who can\'t afford a wig, the problem with the wig is still the quality. Lace-
On beauty stores or China\'s Amazon Alibaba, the price of a former wig is less than $100.
Direct sales to consumers now.
But they are made of processed hair.
Peel off the skin, bleach, stain, dip in silica gel-
Once the chemical disappears, it will disintegrate after several washes.
D\'wanna Randolph\'s solution, sir.
A long time ago, the square was looking for good hair by itself.
\"I\'m tired of falsifying myself in the mail,\" she said . \"
Randolph, a model who lives in Detroit, recently started selling hair Online, an absolutely luxurious hairstyle.
She has filmed two Delta\'s security videos and found a job in the airline\'s customer service department so she can travel for free and check out the small hair salon.
She flew to Seoul, South Korea, and traveled through Southeast Asia with a repairman.
Now she receives the delivery note by courier-
The expansion is mainly from five countries.
\"I got my hair from Myanmar yesterday,\" she said . \".
\"I was excited at the thought of this.
She added: \"I put it in the fridge for 24 hours.
I washed and conditioned it with my own hands and then dried it out.
I put all my hair in the fridge first, just to make sure there are no lice and no snot.
\"It\'s not surprising that black women are also handmade considering the richness of the original hair
Tie your own wig
Stephanie Parker, managing director of Apollo beauty in Harlem, said sales of wigs dropped during the winter months and usually peaked.
\"People do it themselves,\" she said . \"
\"People are getting more cunning.
They are learning what they used to be.
The Simple Art of wig making.
In the past, apprentices had to clean the workshop in a few months before they came into contact with ventilation needles, learn to tidy their hair, and now people can simply watch YouTube.
\"Hi, hello, I\'m Jacquee,\" said the voice in the 2013 video . \".
You only see Jacquee\'s hand, a purple towel and a foam plastic head with lace mesh and wig.
\"Today\'s tutorial is to ventilate the wig,\" she said . \".
\"This is my little wig head.
It was nicknamed Wigna.
For the next 11 minutes, Jacquee presents the ins and outs of weaving hair into lace.
\"Grab the hair, pull it, let it join, and then act like that,\" she said . \".
Nearly half of this video. million views.
\"So you go there, I hope you like it,\" she said . \". “Very simple. Very easy.
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